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Thursday, December 10, 2015

An artisanal Scottish knitter says Chanel ripped off her designs

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German designer Karl Lagerfeld (C) walks the runway at the end of the 12th Chanel Metiers dArt show 'Paris-Rome', an annual event to honor c...
Among the highlights of Chanel’s pre-fall 2016 show in Rome on Dec. 1, was designer Karl
Lagerfeld’s walk on the runway, surrounded by a dapper gang of rugged-looking guys in Fair Isle sweaters. This finale put the spotlight directly on the Fair Isle pattern, which Lagerfeld used a few times in the show, and—since it’s Chanel—immediately started generating buzz around the traditional Scottish design.

It also caught the attention of Mati Ventrillon, an actual knitter on the little island of Fair Isle, who accuses Chanel of copying her work.
In a post on her Facebook page, Ventrillon posted a picture of her design next to Chanel’s. “Earlier this summer, two Chanel staff visited Fair Isle and bought some of my stock garments with the understanding that the garments were for research,” she wrote. “I specifically said that I was going to sell it to them for the reputation of Chanel house and because I would not expect them to copy my design.”
When a commenter asked if it was her original pattern or just a sweater she made from a traditional design, she explained: “The patterns are traditional Fair Isle patterns but the black and white design and the pattern arrangement is my design. I designed that garment for the Queen’s Jubilee celebrations in 2012 as part of Oxford Street Fashion Flags Campaign.”
She also posted a separate image from Chanel that shows a sweater bearing a strong resemblance to another she makes.
Quartz has reached out to Chanel for comment and will update this post with any response. A spokesperson for the company told Express, a UK news site, that it was looking into the allegations and said Chanel was “attentive to and respectful of all creations.”
The sweaters appeared in Chanel’s annual Métiers d’Art show, which is meant to celebrate the craftsmanship of Chanel’s artisan partners.
Ventrillon’s accusation appears to have sparked anger among those in Fair Isle and Shetland, who feel their patterns and name have been too often appropriated by brands with no connection to their region in northern Scotland. Gary Robinson of the Shetland Council called it “exploitation” on Twitter.

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